Bizzare Bazaars: Paharganj

One would end up opting for a rickshaw ride to reach Sadar bazaar of Paharganj which lies 3 kms ahead the RK Ashram metro station, and is bound to notice that none of the rickshaws have a bell to alert the passerbys. One would be taken by surprise as one hears a "Hello," every few minutes and turns back to find that it was no one but a rickshaw-puller trying to politely make you move aside. Not to forget the loaded horse carts and hand carts swarming the roads, avoiding clashes. There are a few shacks on the roadside where one can notice bamboo ladders, fences and mats being neatly crafted.

The Bazaar is bizarre for the modern times, dilapidated and old, selling old trends like hot cakes. There are a few open paranda stalls lined up on the pavements and claim to be the cheapest in the capital( 10/- to 80/-), Chandni Chowk and Sadar Bazaar being the only places still putting them up for sale. Colourful and reminiscent of olden days, they are undoubtedly a welcome change. Trudging ahead, one would notice the old architecture, falling apart, but life goes on there, like any other day in Paharganj. 


On the lane further ahead, one would see many stores that stock puja ka saaman. Down the line there are many clothing stores that fish out 90’s style in wholesale. One look at the suiting and shirting or clothes for toddlers, is all it takes to gauge the lifestyle of the people from the area. It is difficult to imagine the developmental scope of this spot even close to the progress as any other place. As one walks down, a few small groups of people engrossed in playing cards, chatting and laughing, at the sidewalks, would catch ones attention. 

The place has a quaint air about it that does convince one to a large extent about the fact that one has walked a few years back on foot or rather a horse-cart. There is another gully with nothing but utensils shops, from steel to bronze, in all shapes and sizes, with a few shops selling festive plates, diyas and interestingly, gadas, which are hung at the front to catch one's attention. A few chetaks would whirr past and would take you back into the streets of your childhood. 


A few conventional stores with never-ending and yet amusing names by School of Ayurveda, as Swasthya Raksha Kendra can be spotted in the main market along with old dry fruit stores as Chajju Mal Chattar Sain Dry Fruit Stores.


Surprisingly a few banks- ICICI, Yes Bank, Andhra Bank and Mithoot Fincorp have been set up in the main market along with a clinic and a Montessori school. 

There is something that does invite a laugh and takes one out of a sleepwalker's trance. Towards the end of the market there is a street, nai gali that must have been nai at some point of time even though this place seems frozen in time, a time long gone. It must be nostalgic for a few but through the glass door of Nirulas, well yes Nirulas, the only restaurant at the place, the street outside looks like a coloured rendition of something as old as Mughal-e-Azam.

Near this market there is another market, Nehru Bazaar, surprisingly a tourist attraction located in a mundane setting. Many handloom stores have been setup there; Hare Rama Hare Krishna, Radhey Krishna, Rameshwaram to name a few, where the devout and the tourists are bound to be spotted. Names do sell; Literally. 


A throng of tourists can be seen flocking in and out of the reasonable handicrafts stores, jooti stores and jhola stalls. People from different countries, sporting bindis and wearing sarees atop western wear, roam around in carefree manner and it is a relief to see them becoming street smart, throwing Hindi statements at the storekeepers, asking for fair deals and best pieces. 


An attractive collection of semi-precious stones at unbelievably buy-able prices is available at the stores. Jooda pins and jewellery carved out of wood is also worth checking out at stores towards the end of the market. Sadly, there are no eateries at the site but there is a laid-back cafe, maybe the only place with a name that does not scream out loud for attention — Crush on beans, right at the beginning of the shopping street. Free Wi-Fi, lounge-style area, Bollywood and English music to pep up the mood with well defined smoking and non-smoking zones. Italian coffee and pizzas are a must try.

Nehru Bazaar is a saving grace in case one lands up at Sadar Bazaar with great expectations.